Creasing machine

ABSTRACT

Apparatus for forming a permanent crease in fabric includes a work table and cooperating guide frame assembly for feeding flat lengths of fabric to a double needle sewing machine in a perfectly straight line with a longitudinal ripple of selected height at the desired crease location so that parallel rows of chain stitches inserted on opposite sides of the ripple draw the sides of the ripple together into a stitched fold forming a permanent crease.

United States Patent Igneri et a]. [4 1 July 18, 1972 54] CREASING MACHINE 1,619,436 3/1927 Rube] et al ..112/2 2,113,107 41938 130 Invenmm Amhmy Igneri, Levlmwml 2 223 626 1251940 13633:? ..112/121,1s

Milack, Jr., Elmont; John Longo, Copiague, all ofN.Y.

1 Pn'mary Examiner-James R. Boler [73] Asslgneez Fairfield-Noble Corporation, Farrmngdale, A"0mey Amte1-& Rothstein [22] Filed: Aug. 3, 1970 57 ABSTRACT PP 60,316 Apparatus for forming a permanent crease in fabric includes a work table and cooperating guide frame assembly for feeding flat lengths of fabric to a double needle sewing machine in a [2?] :J.S.il ..112/2, ll2ll3lbgilgsll7d perfectly straight line with a longitudinal pp of selected nt. 136 [39 height at the desired crease location so that parallel rows of [58] Field of Search l I chain stitches inserted on opposite sides of the ripple draw the 112/219 sides of the ripple together into a stitched fold forming a permanent crease. [56] References Cited 3 Clairm, 5 Drawing Figures UN lTED STATES PATENTS 2,110,006 3/1938 Segelin et a1 ..112/131 X 3,407,762 10/1968 Winer ..ll2/2l9B Patented July l8, 1972 4 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTORS M M 7 0 V I G N YYMO M HL P EN TSH N00 AJIU ATTORNEYS Patented July 18, 1972 4 Sheets-Sh et 2 INVESTORS ANTHONY V. IGNERI JOSEPH MILAC JOHN LONGO Mo MM ATTORNEYS Patented July 18, 1972 4 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTORS AN HONY V. IGNERI J0 J0 T SEPH MlLACK.Jt. HN LONGO ATTORNEYS CREASING MACHINE This invention relates generally to garment manufacturing equipment and more specifically to apparatus for forming a permanent crease in fabric.

In the manufacture of mens and ladies slacks and shorts, ladies skirts, and similar garments, it is frequently necessary to create a relatively permanent crease or pleat in the garment fabric which will withstand long wear and frequent cleaning. With some fabrics, it is possible to create such a permanent crease or pleat after assembly of the garment by treating the garment fabric with chemicals well known in the art and pressing the desired crease or pleat in a well known manner. However, with some materials such as polyester and nylon and other knit or double knit synthetics, it is not possible to create a pennanent crease or pleat by this pressing technique. Additionally, even with materials which can be treated and pressed, the permanent crease or pleat tends to become washed out by frequent cleaning or extensive use.

Various attempts have been made to create permanent creases in fabrics by a sewing rather than a pressing operation. However, these have met with little success. In conventional procedures of this type, a sheet of fabric is cut to appropriate dimensions for the garment and hand folded at the desired crease location. The folded fabric is then fed by hand to a sewing machine which places a single row of chain stitches through both folded sides of the fabric directly adjacent the desired crease location at the folded end of the goods. If the stitches are placed sufficiently close to the fold, the appearance of a pressed crease can be produced. However, this procedure requires careful and accurate stitching immediately adjacent the folded end of the goods. Stitching of this type is a time consuming procedure and requires a highly qualified operator. The product of this process frequently includes minor irregularities in the stitched line, creating an uneven crease appearance in the finished product and destroying the illusion of a folded, pressed crease. Additionally, in garments manufactured by this process, there is a tendency for the chain of crease forming stitches to tear under the pressures of wear (particularly at the knee in men's and ladies slacks) and run thereby destroying the creased appearance entirely.

It is an object of the present invention to overcome the above deficiencies of the prior art and to provide apparatus for quickly and efficiently producing a uniform, permanent stitched crease in fabrics of any desired length.

A further object of the invention is to permit relatively inexperienced sewing machine operators to form a perfect permanent stitched crease in relatively long fabric sections quickly and efficiently.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide stitch creasing apparatus which is automatically controlled to assure quick and efficient execution of the sewing operation and to insure operator safety.

It is a further object of the invention to provide creasing apparatus which can be easily adapted for use in conjunction with any conventional double needle sewing machine.

In accomplishing these and other objects and in accordance with the present invention, the present apparatus comprises a work table adapted to mount a conventional double needle sewing machine and a cooperating guide frame assembly liftably mounted over the work table for feeding flat unfolded lengths of fabric in a perfectly straight line to the sewing machine foot with a longitudinal ripple of selected height at the desired crease location so that parallel rows of chain stitches inserted by the sewing machine on opposite sides of the ripple draw the fabric forming the sides of the ripple together into a stitched fold forming a permanent crease.

Further objects, features and advantages of the present invention will be more fully appreciated by reference to the following detailed description of a presently preferred, though nonetheless illustrative, embodiment in accordance with the present invention when taken in conjunction with the appended drawings wherein:

FIG. 1 is a top plan view of the creasing machine;

FIG. 2 is a front elevation thereof;

FIG. 3 is a left side elevation thereof;

FIG. 4 is a right side elevation thereof; and,

FIG. 5 is a diagrammatic representation of the pneumatic control system of the creasing machine.

Referring generally to the drawings, the crease stitching apparatus generally designated 10 comprises a work table 12 adapted to receive a conventional double needle sewing machine 14 adjacent one end thereof. Table 12 is equipped with a guide frame assembly generally designated 16 which is liftably mounted over the main work area of table 12 and adapted, when in its lowered operative position, to cooperate with the table to guide fabric positioned at the main work area to the presser foot 14a of the sewing machine in proper condition for the creation of a stitched fold by applicants method.

Sewing machine 14 is a double needle sewing machine of a type well known in the art and is adapted to insert a double needle chain stitch in the fabric sheet as the fabric is drawn past presser foot 14a by operation of a feed dog beneath the sewing machine throat plate in the well known manner. The cooperating table 12 and guide frame form a longitudinal ripple of selected height in the fabric in a manner to be described hereinafter. The double needle chain stitch is inserted with one chain row on each side of the longitudinal ripple so that the sides of the fabric sheet are drawn together at the ripple in a stitched fold forming a permanent crease. Table 12 and guide frame 16 cooperate to feed fabric to presser foot 14a in a perfectly straight line with a uniform retarding tension so as to create a perfectly straight, uniform crease and to avoid buckling of the fabric.

Referring more specifically to the preferred embodiment, work table 12 includes a rectangular cut-out portion 18 opening over a dropped table section 20 which is bolted by corner bolts 22 to the main table surface 12 to provide a sunken emplacement for sewing machine 14. The depth of the sunken emplacement is selected so that the sewing machine presser foot 14a is aligned with the work surface of table 12 permitting fabric to be fed directly from the work surface to the presser foot.

Sewing machine 14 is a conventional double needle sewing machine (such as a UNION SPECIAL 52100 BC made by the Union Special Sewing Machine Company. Sewing machine 14 is powered by a motor and clutch assembly 26 through drive belt 24 in a manner well known in the sewing machine art. For clutch control, motor and clutch assembly 26 is provided with an L-shaped clutch control arm 28 pivotally mounted at pivot bracket 30. In operation, power is transmitted to drive wheel 48 and hence through belt 24 to the sewing machine when clutch control arm 28 is pivoted clockwise about bracket 30 setting the internal clutch (not shown) in engaged position. When clutch control arm 28 is in its counterclockwise position, the internal clutch is disengaged and wheel 48 locks, stopping sewing machine 14. In accordance with the automated operation of applicants apparatus, clutch control arm 28 is controlled through connector 102 by clutch cylinder 50 in a manner to be described hereinafter.

Assembly 26 is connected by power cable 32 to switch box 34 which is connected by an appropriate cable (not shown) to an electrical outlet. Assembly 26 is supported by cross brace 42 extending across the machine between legs 40a and 40d with additional support being provided by arced brace 44. The above described structural arrangement provides a secure seat for motor an clutch assembly 26. However, it is to be understood that this support structure may be in any convenient secure form.

For controlling the raising and lowering of presser foot 140, sewing machine 14 includes an external foot controlling lever 52 pivoted at pin 52a and connected internal of the sewing machine casing to presser foot 14a. Arm 52 is spring loaded toward its upper or clockwise position in FIG. 3 wherein presser foot 14a is lowered to its operative condition. However, in accordance with applicants control system, control arm 52 is normally held by cable 54 in its lowered position with presser foot 14a raised. Cable 54 is connected to pneumatic foot lift control cylinder 56 so that the raising and lowering of presser foot 14 can be regulated by applicants control arrangement in a manner to be described hereinafter.

Guide frame 16 comprises two flat parallel bars 58 of aluminum or other appropriate material supported by arms 60 which extend outwardly from pivot bar 62. Bar 62 is secured in bearing mountings 64 to the upper surface of table 12 and is adapted to rotate in bearing 64, raising and lowering arms 60 and hence the guide bars 58. The mechanism controlling the raising and lowering of guide frame 16 is best seen in the left side elevation of FIG. 4 which reveals that pivot bar 62 is rigidly secured to a leverage arm 68 which extends through table 12 and is controlled by guide frame lift cylinder assembly 70. Lift cylinder assembly 70 is pivotally connected at one end thereof to bracket 72 secured to the underside of table 12 and, at the other end, to leverage arm 68. It will be appreciated that as piston 70a moves outwardly of cylinder 70, army 60 and hence the entire guide frame assembly 16 pivots upwardly away from work surface 12. As arm 70a is drawn into cylinder 70, arms 60 pivots downwardly bringing the guide frame assembly into operative position in cooperation with the work surface of table 12.

The mechanical elements of guide frame assembly 16 are adapted to be enclosed by a pivoted safety cover 74 (shown in FIGS. 2, 3 and 4 but eliminated from FIG. 1) including side cut-out 74a to accommodate rod 62. In FIG. 2, the cover is shown in its down closed position in FIGS. 3 and 4 it is shown in its up uncovered position.

The upper surface of work table 12 is provided with an upstanding guide rail 76 extending across the work surface from one end of table 12 to the lip of cut-out 18 housing the sewing machine 14. Guide rail 76 is positioned so that the parallel flat bars 58 of guide frame 16 sit astride rail 76 when frame 16 is in its lowered or operative position. Rail 76 cooperates with parallel bars 58 and the surface of table 12 to provide a guide for fabric on the work surface. The cooperating elements securely grasps the fabric and assure a perfectly straight line fabric feed which is critical to creation of a proper crease while maintaining a relatively uniform retarding tension. The thickness of rail 76 and the spacing between bars 58 can be selected to suit the type of fabric being creased. At the same time, the engagement of bars 58 and table 12 with the fabric in process prevents buckling or the development of transverse ripples in the fabric which would destroy the desired permanent stitch crease effect.

Adjacent the end of guide rail 76 at the lip of opening 18 there is a supplementary upstanding guide element 76a which is permanently secured to the work surface 14b of sewing machine 14. Element 76a acts as an extension of guide rail 76 and cooperates with the ends of parallel bars 58 which extend over the lip of cutout 18 to maintain the transverse ripple right up to the presser foot 14a..

Presser foot 14a comprises a metallic plate having a longitudinal rectangular channel on its lower face which is opened in the direction of flow of the work. This channel cooperates with an upstanding ridge 1 on the throat plate of the sewing machine 14 to preserve the transverse ripple as the parallel chain stitch rows are inserted by the sewing needles.

Guide rails 76 and 76a and bars 58 cooperate to form a longitudinal ripple along the entire length of the fabric being stitched permitting a uniform steady feed. In operation, the fabric is positioned on table 12 so that the ripple formed by these cooperating elements lies exactly on the desired crease location. As the fabric to be creased is drawn past presser foot 14a parallel connected rows of chain stitches (a double needle chain stitch) are inserted on opposite sides of the transverse ripple drawing the ripple sides together to create a stitched fold forming the permanent crease.

The apparatus shown in FIGS. 14 includes a pneumatic power and control arrangement which permits an operator to form a permanent stitched crease in a piece of fabric of any desired length by pressing a single control switch. The pneumatic control system is shown diagrammatically in FIG. 5, with the diagram numbering corresponding to the physical structure shown in FIGS. l-4.

Basically, the desired sequence of operation is as follows: In the rest position, both guide frame 16 and presser foot 14a are elevated and the sewing machine clutch is disengaged. The work material is then placed in position on the work table and presser foot 14a and guide frame 16 descend simultaneously to grip the work in appropriate position. The clutch is then engaged, activating the sewing machine and drawing the work past the presser foot. When the stitch row is completed, the control switch is released and the presser foot and guide frame rise to their rest position simultaneously with release of the sewing machine clutch.

In accomplishing this sequence of operation, the apparatus 10 is provided with a main four-way control valve 78 located at the bottom of the table assembly in appropriate position to be controlled by an operator's foot. Air is applied to the primary valve from an air source (not shown) through an input duct 82, and input air filter 80, and air pressure regulator 84 having an air pressure gauge 86 and an automatic lubricator 88, all acting in series as shown graphically in FIG. 5 and physically in the left side elevation of FIG. 4. Filter merely filters the input air flow to be sure foreign matter and contaminants do not enter the pneumatic system. Regulator 86 is adjusted to establish a desired operating pressure which is monitored by gauge 86. Lubricator 88 is of a type well known in the art and injects a fine mist of lubricating oil into the pneumatic air flow to lubricate the pistons and other moving parts of the pneumatic system.

The air input line also includes an emergency cutoff valve 90 immediately before the main control valve. This emergency valve is located at the forward end of the table within easy reach of the operator. Valve 90 is a three-port valve which, in its rest position, directs air under pressure to the main control valve 78. In an emergency, valve 90 can be hand operated, venting the input air supply and de-activating the apparatus control system. When this occurs, all elements of the system immediately return to their rest position i.e., the guide frame and presser foot move up and the clutch is disengaged so that the sewing machine is stopped, insuring operator safety.

When the main control valve 78 is in its normal rest position, air is directed through the stop output terminal 780 activating the stop side of the system (see FIG. 5). To activate the system, a control lever on valve 78 is depressed by the operator, applying air to the start output port 78b and to the start side of the system through manifold 92 (shown diagrammatically in FIG. 5 but hidden in the views of FIGS. 1-4). Manifold 92 merely divides the start output air of the main control valve into three separate channels to power the presser foot and guide frame pneumatic cylinders and to engage the clutch cylinder.

As will be seen from the schematic of FIG. 5, on operation of the main control valve, air from manifold 92 passes immediately through the guide frame down regulator 94 (which controls the pressure in the line to the guide frame cylinder) to the forward port on guide frame cylinder 70, thus drawing rod 70a into cylinder 70 and lowering the guide frame 16 through arm 68 as described above. At the same time, air is directed from manifold 92 to the rear input port of presser foot cylinder 56 driving rod 56a upwardly out of cylinder 56, releasing foot control arm 52 on machine 14 through chain 54 so that foot control arm 52 returns to its upward position under urging of an internal load spring, lowering presser foot 14a onto the goods. This completes the first active phase of the creasing cycle.

The second active phase of the cycle is the engagement of the motor clutch apparatus 26 and operation of the sewing machine itself. This operation is initiated by the lowering of the guide frame 16 in the following manner. Associated with the guide frame lowering mechanism is a motor start valve 96 which is normally in closed position. It will be seen from FIG. 5 that air from the central port of manifold 92' is applied through clutch engage regulator 98 and the motor start valve 96 to the forward port of clutch control cylinder 50. Air pressure is thus applied to motor start valve 96 as soon as pressure is applied to the start side of the system. Since valve 96 is normally closed, the clutch remains disengaged until guide frame assembly 16 is lowered, at which time a projection 100 extending rearwardly from pivot bar 62 engages start valve 96 opening the valve and applying air pressure to the forward port of clutch control cylinder 50 drawing rod 50a into cylinder 50. Rod 50a is connected through connector 102 to the pivotal clutch control arm 28 described above, which pivots about brace 30 engaging the internal clutch in unit 26.

Once the clutch is engaged, the apparatus is in full operation and the work material is drawn past presser foot 14a where the parallel stitch rows are inserted creating a stitched fold and permanent crease.

On completion of the stitching cycle, the operator releases control valve 78, closing off the output start port 78b and opening the output stop port 78a. This action applies air to stop manifold 104 which, in turn, simultaneously applies air to the forward input port of presser foot cylinder 56 raising the presser foot, through clutch disengage regulator 106 to the rear input port of clutch control cylinder 50 disengaging the clutch and de-activating the sewing machine; and through guide frame up regulator 108 to the rear input port of guide frame up cylinder 70 raising the guide frame. It is to be understood that these three operations occur simultaneously, thereby terminating the operating cycle. Regulators 106 and 108 control the air pressure in the particular pneumatic line in which they are attached to accommodate the system to different size pneumatic cylinders.

This apparatus thus produces a perfect, permanent stitched crease with the application of very little operator skill. The apparatus is substantially faster than conventional fold stitching systems, is simple and easy to maintain and produces a more durable crease than has heretofore been available.

it is to be understood that the above arrangement is merely an example of the application of the principles of the present invention. Numerous additional embodiments will be apparent to those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention as defined by the following claims.

What is claimed is:

1. Apparatus for use in combination with a double needle I sewing machine for forming a permanent stitched crease in fabric sections of any desired length comprising a work table having an upstanding guide rail extending transversely across its surface from adjacent one end thereof to a sewing machine location adjacent the other end thereof, a guide frame including a pair of substantially horizontal engaging surfaces, means for supporting said guide frame over said table and for moving said frame between an operative position on said table with said engaging surfaces on opposite sides of said guide rail and an inoperative position away from said table, and timed control means for moving said guide frame into operative position in timed sequence with the operation of said sewing machine in a predetermined creasing cycle, said table and guide frame in operative position cooperating to form an elongated ripple in said fabric over said guide rail so that said sewing machine inserts a double needle chain stitch in said fabric at said desired crease location drawing said fabric into a stitched fold forming a permanent crease.

2. Apparatus in accordance with claim 1 wherein said timed control means includes guide frame control means for moving said guide frame between said operative and inoperative positions, presser foot control means operative in conjunction with said guide frame control means for lowering the presser foot of said sewing machine simultaneously with lowering of said guide frame, and clutch control means operative in timed relation to said guide frame control means and said presser foot control means to actuate said sewing machine after commencement of said creasing cycle.

3. Apparatus for forming a permanent crease in fabric comprising a work surface adapted to mount a sewing machine, an upstanding guide rail extending across a substantial portion of said work surface and terminating adjacent the presser foot of said sewing machine, a cooperating guide frame assembly mounted over said work surface including engaging surfaces which engage said fabric on opposite sides of said guide rail along substantially the entire length of said rail to form a longitudinal ripple of selected height in said fabric at the desired crease location and to apply a constant stabalizing and retarding force to said fabric during the operative cycle of said sewing machine so that parallel connected rows of chain stitches inserted by said sewing machine on opposite sides of said ripple draw said fabric into a stitched fold forming a permanent crease. 

1. Apparatus for use in combination with a double needle sewing machine for forming a permanent stitched crease in fabric sections of any desired length comprising a work table having an upstanding guide rail extending transversely across its surface from adjacent one end thereof to a sewing machine location adjacent the other end thereof, a guide frame including a pair of substantially horizontal engaging surfaces, means for supporting said guide frame over said table and for moving said frame between an operative position on said table with said engaging surfaces on opposite sides of said guide rail and an inoperative position away from said table, and timed control means for moving said guide frame into operative position in timed sequence with the operation of said sewing machine in a predetermined creasing cycle, said table and guide frame in operative position cooperating to form an elongated ripple in said fabric over said guide rail so that said sewing machine inserts a double needle chain stitch in said fabric at said desired crease location drawing said fabric into a stitched fold forming a permanent crease.
 2. Apparatus in accordance with claim 1 wherein said timed control means includes guide frame control means for moving said guide frame between said operative and inoperative positions, presser foot control means operative in conjunction with said guide frame control means for lowering the presser foot of said sewing machine simultaneously with lowering of said guide frame, and clutch control means operative in timed relation to said guide frame control means and said presser foot control means to actuate said sewing machine after commencement of said creasing cycle.
 3. Apparatus for forming a permanent crease in fabric comprising a work surface adapted to mount a sewing machine, an upstanding guide rail extending across a substantial portion of said work surface and terminating adjacent the presser foot of said sewing machine, a cooperating guide frame assembly mounted over said work surface including engaging surfaces which engage said fabric on opposite sides of said guide rail along substantially the entire length of said rail to form a longitudinal ripple of selected height in said fabric at the desired crease location and to apply a constant stabalizing and retarding force to said fabric during the operative cycle of said sewing machine so that parallel connected rows of chain stitches inserted by said sewing machine on opposite sides of said ripple draw said fabric into a stitched fold forming a permanent crease. 